~*~ Quarantine ~*~

New rats should be quarantined for at least two weeks. (Some people do any where from a week to four weeks. Some people do not quarantine at all. But that is your choice.) During this time you'll be looking for signs of illness or parasites. Some signs of illness include but are not limited to excess excretion of porphyrin, constant sneezing (but this shouldn't be confused with "new home sneezes"*), wheezing/squeaking/nasally sounds (you may only hear these when they're active or sleeping), lack of appetite, not drinking water, lethargic behavior, dull unkempt fur, weight loss, and just a general depression. Signs of parasites (typically lice) are excessive itching or picking at themselves and scabs. However those two symptoms may be signs of too much protein. At that point you'll need to look through their fur and look for lice. More information on lice.

"New Home Sneezes"* - When rats go to a new home (or when you clean their cage) they often root around in the bedding and sniff around a lot. The extra smelling and rooting often causes them to sneeze. They'll sneeze often but it should stop within a few days. With no other symptoms present sneezing usually isn't a concern.

True quarantine would be to keep them in a separate air space (so another home than where your old rats live).

However keeping new additions in a completely different home is not an option for everyone. If that's the case then keep the new additions in a separate room; preferably one as far away as possible like on another floor of your home and a room that has a door that can be kept closed.

In both cases these practices should be followed. You must act as if everything is contaminated. Always change your clothes and wash your hands/arms after caring for or handling your new rats. Do not use the same cage cleaning equipment on both cages. (If you only have one scoop bleach it after you use it to clean the new rats' cage.)

You can use the quarantine time as a chance to bond with your new rats before they bond with your other rats. You can build a relationship with them and gain their trust.

~*~ Introduction Process ~*~

If there are any aggressive displays you may have to revert back to the previous step and stay there for a few days. Take things slow. Aggressive displays are typically tail wagging, huffing, fur puffing up, side stepping, etc.

Little scuffles are sometimes needed to establish a pecking order but they should be quick with no injury. Power grooming is more common and a more acceptable way to establish a pecking order. Rats may squeak when being power groomed. But if no one is getting hurt it's fine.

Keep something handy (like a spatula) to break up fights. Don't use your hand in case they accidentally bite or scratch you. Sometimes when they're scared or riled up they don't realize that it's you grabbing them and they react negatively.

You can put vanilla extract on their shoulders to help "mask" their scent and encourage grooming which promotes bonding. You can also hide sweet things around the introduction place so it becomes a positive experience. Just make sure it's a tiny amount (one rat bite size) in multiple areas so no one hoards and becomes aggressive. Yogurt works well because they have no choice but to eat it right away.

Steps/Weeks

Week one and week two - Babies will have just come home. They'll be six weeks old or so.

This is typically the two week quarantine process. This time also allows you to bond with the new babies before they form a bond with your older rats. It allows the new babies to adjust to your home and become used to you. (True quarantine is keeping the new rats in a separate air space (like another house) from your older rats. That's hard for a lot of people so they usually just keep them on a separate floor of the house, change their clothes, and wash their hands before touching their older rats.) Quarantine is optional but is recommended.

Week three - The babies will be around eight weeks old.

Put the two separate cages next to each other. Do not have them touching. You do not want any accidental biting. (Such as little fingers getting bit when they're sticking in the other cage.) This will allow the rats to be more aware of each others” presence.

Week four - The babies will be around nine weeks old.

Swap the older rats into the new rats' cage and the new rats into the older rats' cage. (This let's them get up close with each others' scent without coming in contact.)

>>> Be sure to hold your new rats separately from your old rats to continue bonding with your new rats. You don't want them to always be stressed (from being out with the old rats) when you're holding them. And don't forget to show the same one on two attention with your old rats. You want to continue everything as normal. <<<

Week Five - The babies will be around ten weeks old. For this step I would also suggest clipping or filing all the rats nails* before you introduce them. Rat nails are very sharp and can create very large, deep wounds. If everyone has trimmed, smooth nails it is less likely that someone will get hurt.

Introduce them to each other on neutral territory. Some place like the bath tub (put a blanket down because it'll be cold) or on your bed. You can add scent neutral hides (hides with no rats' scent on it) and treats to the neutral territory. The treats are a reward for meeting each other. The treats should be rat bite size to avoid hoarding. The hides help them feel secure and not out in the open and vulnerable. You can put vanilla extract on their shoulders blades to mask their scent and encourage grooming which also encourages bonding.

Week six - Babies will be around eleven weeks old.

This step is similar to the one above. However instead of having their play date on neutral territory have their play date on whatever place your take your old rats out on. So if you have a comforter that your old rats go on while on your bed put that computer down. Let the babies interact with the old rats on territory that the old rats may think is theirs. Still have scent neutral hides and treats down.

Keep an eye out for any signs of aggression. This is a precursor to the babies moving in with your old rats. This will help you know if they are ready to live together.

Week six or week seven - The babies will be around twelve weeks old.

If all is going well you can now try adding the babies to the adults' cage. Make sure you clean the cage and everything in it thoroughly. This will help eliminate scents and help remove the older rats' claim to the cage. You want it to be like a new cage that no one has possession of.

Hides treats around the cage to distract them and make it a positive experience to have new cage mates. Have plenty of hides so that the rats can "escape" and hide without feeling cornered.

* You may have to clip their nails as often as twice a week. If clipping their nails is too hard you can get a piece of low grad sand paper, affix it to something, and gently drag them over that. They will go to grip the sandpaper and as you carefully hold their body and pull them back they will file their nails. A lot of people also put rocks or bricks inside the rats' cage to keep their nails filed. When they climb on it it naturally wears down their nails. You can put it in an area where they frequent to make sure they are stepping/climbing on it. Like under the water bottle. Lava ledges are also helpful.